Composting

First poppy to bloom in my garden - a Shirley poppy:

I finally put together a long-overdue compost heap for kitchen scraps, dry brush and the like. Here is how a biointensive compost pile works:

First, you loosen the soil below it a foot deep. This allows for proper drainage. Then, cover the soil with a 3"-thick layer of very fibrous carbonaceous materials, like small branches, corn and sunflower stalks, to ensure airflow below the pile. Then start building up your pile in layers, repeated as follows:

1. 1-2" layer of dry vegetation
   
2. 1-2" layer of green vegetation
3. ¼-½" layer of soil

Each layer is thoroughly watered after it is added to the pile. After about three weeks, the pile is turned to make the mixture more homogeneous for a complete breakdown. By following this procedure, the final product should have a carbon-nitrogen ratio of about 30 to 1, which is the ideal ratio.

I learned a bit about composting last year and heard about the 30 to 1 ratio, but misunderstood that the "carbon" in that ratio was equivalent to "dry vegetation", and "nitrogen" was equivalent to "green vegetation" - meaning I should be making a pile with 30 times more dry vegetation than green vegetation. This is not so, and I'm glad HtGMV makes it all very clear.

My next-door neighbour kindly donated his black "earth machine" composter to my garden, so I'm using it to keep things tidy. HtGMV, however, says it's not necessary to contain the compost at all, and a free-standing pile is perfectly fine.

Seedling Swap

I haven't been posting much lately because I've been spending most of my time practicing with Meta and Chris for the Cowboy Mimes' second show last night. My amazing friend Kelly from Everdale kindly drove my big-ass keyboard to the gig at no charge, and it was a good chance for
us to swap seedlings. I gave her some of my many sweet pepper seedlings, and in return she gave me a zucchini, two varieties of tomato (beautiful, large mini-plants they are), and an unusual kind of eggplant that's produces orange-coloured fruit (I'll find out the name).

My own tomatoes are doing very poorly. None of my groundcherries have germinated, and only two of my ruffled red tomatoes have sprouted. All my seedlings seem to be growing very slowly, despite the amount of sun they get. Perhaps it's still just too cool at night? Or maybe my potting soil is too dense and the roots don't get enough oxygen? Beats me.

What do people think about transplanting seedlings into 100% compost, just to give them a boost? Maybe I'll experiment.

Damping off damping off

After reading farmer Jon's posting in which he mentioned some of his seedlings were damping off, I realized that this was exactly what was happening to my seedlings. I was wondering why my poppy, valerian, and lavender seedlings weren't becoming expectedly big and strong with the warmer sunny weather of the last few days. Instead, they were getting scrawnier and eventually just collapsing and disintegrating, which sounds like exactly what was happening to some of Jon's seedlings.

I think my potting soil was poor. I'd water it, and it seemed to stay moist for a long time. When it finally did dry out, it was extremely dry, crusty and chunky, not fluffy like it was when I first filled the flats. All in all, it didn't seem like a very habitable place for a baby seedling (as nutrient-rich as it may have been). I may also have been watering too often. They say to let the soil dry out completely before completely saturating the soil with water again. This makes the soil inhospitable to the damping-off fungi that like to attack seedlings.

I realized that I really should have sifted my compost rather than just crumbled it through my fingers. I don't know what I was thinking. I guess I just didn't feel like going to the trouble of making a compost screen. So I went to the trouble this morning, and I made a great little sieve (I only needed to make the screen part shown on that page, not the frame it sits on). I found a ½"-gauge screen by the railroad tracks (I actually went there specifically to look for one, too; I also found a perfectly good cooler). I sifted all my potting soil, and already it felt much softer and less chunky.

But I knew I'd need to do more than sift it, because if I grabbed a fistful, it would still stick together in clumps that wouldn't break apart very easily. It seemed I needed the equivalent of peat moss for my potting soil to make it act more like a sponge. But peat moss is a non-renewable resource and its use promotes the loss of wetland habitats. An alternative to peat moss is coconut coir, but it comes from India, so that's out of the question. The more common alternative is vermiculite, but it's mined and its production is very petroleum-dependent, so it doesn't interest me either.

I went back to HtGMV just to make sure they really did say to use one part compost, one part garden soil for making potting soil. Yup, that's what it says. But then I realized that the compost they're referring to is the hypothetical compost that I would have made last year - from vegetable remains, compost crops and yard waste - whereas the compost I had delivered to my backyard seems to be very much manure-based. It's rich, dense and pretty homogeneous. By contrast, compost made from leaves, twigs, stalks and veggie scraps would be (as I recall our garden compost as I was growing up) much more powdery, fibrous, and heterogeneous. Which is possibly why it eliminates the need for a spongy ingredient like peat moss. This is all very speculative, of course.

If only I'd had some of that "other" compost to use for my potting soil! But as luck would have it, today just happened to be one of the city's "Environment Days" where I knew they gave away free leaf compost, and it just happened to be within a 25-minute walk from my house, too. Clearly, it was meant to be. I grabbed the biggest knapsack I had, lined it with a couple oversized plastic bags, grabbed a shovel, and headed down. I got there, and there was barely enough left between the tufts of grass to scrape an oversize load into my knapsack. I'll leave you to imagine how uncomfortable the walk back home was. At least it wasn't raining.

I added the sifted leaf compost to my potting soil, and it seemed to improve it a lot. It had just the texture I was looking for. So I resowed most of my seeds, plus tomatoes, groundcherry, and spearmint, using the new soil (I think it's still within 7 days of the new moon) and we'll see if it works a little better.

Life of a double-digger

I prepared my first raised bed yesterday by double-digging an existing 18-square-foot bed in the front yard. Double-digging is one of the essential features of the biointensive method. It originates in French intensive gardening, which was developed for people with narrow backyards in France to enable higher yields for a given area. The idea is to loosen the soil two feet deep without completely disturbing the natural soil profile, so that roots can easily delve deep rather than spread out.

HtGMV describes several different bed preparation procedures you can choose from, depending on whether you're double-digging it for the first time, preparing last year's biointensive bed, starting a bed in poor soil, and so on. I followed the "Initial Double-Dig" procedure, since even though I was preparing it from an existing garden bed, the bed hadn't previously been worked biointensively. Here's the simplified version:

1. Loosen the top 12 inches of soil with a spading fork (I highly recommend the beautiful, stainless-steel Lee Valley tools) and remove any weeds, roots, or stones you came across.
2. Spread a 1-inch layer of compost over the entire area.
3. Using a flat-edge spade, remove the soil from the upper part of the first trench (a couple feet wide) and place it in a soil storage area for use in making compost and flat soil.
4. Loosen the soil in the first trench an additional 12 inches using the spading fork.
5. Dig out the upper part of the second trench and move it into the first trench. The first trench is complete.
6. Loosen the lower part of the second trench.
7. Lather, rinse, repeat, until you've reached the end of the bed.
8. Shape the bed into a mound by raking it.
   

Result:

Ain't that somethin'?

Next, I planted carrots, radishes, sunflowers and edible flowers. Carrots and radishes both like to be planted next to lettuce. They are companion plants, which is another essential feature of biointensive gardening. Companion planting is a not-totally-understood phenomenon that some species of plants thrive better when grown next to certain other "companion" species. There are also some plant species that will inhibit the growth of certain other species ("antagonist" plants). The de-facto book on the subject is Carrots Love Tomatoes by Louise Riotte.

So back to the carrots, radishes and lettuce. Carrots and radishes like lettuce, so since I'll be expecting lettuce seedlings in a couple weeks, I left some room for lettuce to be planted nearby when the time comes. Carrots and radishes also make good companions themselves if they are interplanted amongst each other, as carrots take longer to mature than radishes, as this diagram illustrates:

I came up with a pretty ridiculous pattern for interplanting my radishes and carrots, based on the fact that carrots should be spaced about 3" apart and radishes 1" apart:

Please do not let this frighten you. Interplanting is completely optional. I just think it's super fun. (Remember, I was a math major.)

So then I poked holes where the seeds should go, popped the seeds in, covered the holes up, and gave the bed a healthy spray with the hose. I hope something grows out of it.

Before it was a garden

Here are some photos of my tiny plot:

I calculated that I have about 150 square feet of land to grow food on. The backyard has random debris and a thin layer of gravel on it. It looks like it used to be a driveway. Luckily there is a sheet of plastic between the soil and the gravel, so at least the soil has been somewhat protected from harmful chemicals. I am going to enrich the soil by gardening biointensively. Says Wikipedia:

The biointensive method is an organic agricultural system which focuses on maximum yields from the minimum area of land, while simultaneously improving the soil. The goal of the method is long term sustainability on a closed system basis. Because biointensive is practiced on a relatively small scale, it is well suited to anything from personal, family, or community gardens, market gardens, or 'minifarms.' It has also been used successfully on small scale commercial farms.

In only 200 square feet of land, you can grow enough vegetables for one person for a whole year. However, it takes a couple years to build up both the soil and your skill in order to make that happen. For more information on the fascinating biointensive method, visit Ecology Action.

To begin a biointensive garden on poor soil, one needs enough compost to cover the growing area 1 inch thick, plus enough extra for using in flats. I calculated I'd need about half a cubic yard of compost in total. I ordered compost from Homeland, a family-operated garden centre on the Danforth. Their minimum delivery amount was 1 cubic yard, so I bought that ($30 + $60 delivery charge + tax). Here is 1 cubic yard of compost:


They dumped the compost half inside my backyard, and half on the road. I had to buy a shovel ($15) and a tarp ($8) from the hardware store to move into the back yard and protect it from the elements.